Diamond Guide

Welcome to Friendly Diamonds! We have created this interactive journey to help you understand what a diamond is, how a lab-diamond is made, its benefits, and explain how it's an excellent choice for your next piece of jewelry.

What are Diamonds??

Diamonds are one of the most stunning and sought-after gemstones on the planet. They are composed of carbon atoms arranged in a crystal structure called a diamond lattice; this gives them their exceptional harness (Mohs Scale: 10) and brilliant sparkle and fire. Diamonds are capable of cutting through almost anything; basically, it takes a diamond to make a diamond.

Diamond Anatomy

The anatomy of a diamond plays a pivotal role in the way the diamond sparkles, how it looks, and how it is priced. Here’s a detailed breakdown of a diamond’s anatomy:

For better understanding, a diamond can be broken down into two distinctive perspectives: face-up and face-down.

Face-up

In the face-up view, the diamond is viewed from up, exactly how it would look when worn in any jewelry. The key features of a face-up perspective are:

Face-down

Contrary to the face-up view, the face-down view refers to how the diamond is seen from the bottom. The key features of the face-down perspective are:

• Pavilion: This is the lower part of the diamond that consists of everything from the girdle to the diamond’s tip, known as its ‘culet’. The cut and depth of the pavilion affect how light is refracted and determine the diamond’s overall sparkle.

• Culet: This is the tiniest point of a diamond and may sometimes be absent. A well-cut culet is crucial in reducing light leakage and enhancing the brilliance and luster of a diamond.

• Lower Facets: The pattern, precision, and finish of the lower facets found on the pavilion are crucial for light performance. Its proper alignment and symmetry contribute to a diamond’s overall luster.

The 4 C’s (..and more)

A diamond’s value is determined by what the diamantaires refer to as the ‘4Cs’.

Diamonds are precious, but you can find a variety of diamonds in different shapes, sizes, and colors, and they will all be priced differently. Why? Because they are assessed based on their 4 C’s (cut, clarity, color, and carat). These 4 Cs determine the daunting C: COST!

These 4 C’s are the center stone upon which the value and desirability of a diamond are assessed. So, whether you are a diamond connoisseur or are newly navigating through the world of gemstones, understanding the qualities that give a diamond its value is crucial.

Read on to uncover how each diamond’s facet contributes to its brilliance and uniqueness.

Cut

Let’s cut right to the chase.

When referring to diamonds, the cut is determined by the craftsmanship of each facet and the diamond’s ability to reflect and refract light. It is the cut of a diamond that determines the diamond's sparkle, brilliance, and overall beauty. A well-cut diamond will be one with exceptional brilliance and fire. On the other hand, a poorly cut diamond may be asymmetrical, lack in brilliance, and have little to no fire. Understanding the intricacies and importance of a diamond’s cut allows you to appreciate and select diamonds that resonate with you.

Do not confuse the cut of the diamond with the shape of the diamond, as they are two very different qualities.

The cut of a diamond plays a crucial role in determining its value and beauty. There is no set standard for what a ‘perfect’ diamond looks like; one individual might find a diamond aesthetically appealing while another may not. This is why certain laboratories such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will only grade a round diamond’s cut, as the cut grade of a fancy-shape diamond is subjective to the consumer. However, other laboratories do grade cut of all diamond sizes.

Clarity

Like a diamond’s cut, its clarity is also a deciding factor in its value and overall beauty.

A diamond’s clarity is graded based on its blemishes, inclusions, or lack thereof. Blemishes refer to any surface characteristics such as scratches, polish lines, nicks, burns, surface graining, and more. Inclusions refer to characteristics found inside a diamond such as feathers, clouds, etch channels, and more. These blemishes and inclusions can affect a diamond’s overall appearance and its ability to let light pass through.

The grading system ranges from Flawless (FL) to Included (I):

• Flawless (FL): Flawless diamonds are the rarest and most valuable stones, as their surface is smooth (blemish-free) and the diamond has no inclusions, making them shine the brightest.

• Internally Flawless (IF): Like FL diamonds, IF diamonds are also inclusion-free but differ because they contain certain surface-blemishes. These diamonds are nearly perfect.

• Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2): To the naked eye, these diamonds are inclusion-free. They consist of very minor inclusions that can only be seen by a trained professional with a magnifying loupe or a microscope. VVS1 is slightly less included than VVS2.

• Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2): VS1 and VS2 stones consist of minor inclusion that can be seen if examined closely.

• Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2): SI1 and SI2 (and sometimes SI3) diamonds contain inclusions (and blemishes) that are visible to an untrained eye also.

• Included (I1, I2, I3): Included diamonds have inclusions (and blemishes) that are clearly visible, even without the aid of a loupe or microscope. I3 is the lowest clarity a diamond can obtain.

For better understanding, here is a visual representation of a round diamond from every clarity grade mentioned above. We hope this has been flawlessly explained.

Color

We are thrilled to see ‘hue’ made it so far!

The third C stands for ‘color’. While examining the color of a diamond, its hue, tone, and saturation are taken into consideration. These factors affect the transparency, rarity, and value of a diamond. When diamonds contain no additional elements in their chemical composition, they look colorless- this is one of the highest values a diamond can have. Diamonds are graded on a scale of D to Z. Diamonds graded on this scale are graded based on their absence of color, with D being considered the most colorless. Anything beyond Z is considered ‘fancy colored’.

• Colorless (D, E, F): These are your colorless diamonds. Face up or face down, there is no color in these diamonds. Within the D-Z scale, these are typically the most sought-after diamonds.

• Near Colorless (G, H, I, J): These are the diamonds that face-up have no color but face-down appear very faintly colored (usually yellow or brown). These can be great colors to buy if you would like to be a little kinder to your pockets without seeing any difference face-up.

• Faint (K, L, M): Faint-colored diamonds are the ones where, face-down, you can see prominent color, and face-up, you can see very faint color.

• Very Light (N, O, P, Q, R): In these diamonds, the color is quite prominent face-up and face-down.

• Light (S-Z): Light diamonds have a prominent color and are one step away from being considered ‘fancy-colored’.

At Friendly Diamonds, we don’t manufacture or sell diamonds that are below M color.

Carat

Carat is the last key factor in determining a diamond’s value. Carat refers to a diamond’s weight, which in turn determines its size. While many people consider the carat weight to be a determinant of a diamond’s size, this can be misleading as certain attributes, such as the cut or shape, can have a significant impact on its size. One carat is equivalent to 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams.

We’ve all heard the saying ‘the bigger the better’, right? This may not be the case when it comes to purchasing a diamond. Yes, you may come across a bigger diamond that is more affordable than a smaller one and think you have hit the jackpot. While the diamond may be cheaper, it might be because of its lower cut, clarity, or color grade. Knowing which attributes you prefer is what is most important.

5th C: Credibility

Often overlooked, Friendly Diamonds has decided to emphasize the 5th C: credibility.

We want you to fully trust us with your diamond needs and will provide you with all the necessary information to make this possible.

In order for a diamond to be credible, certain criteria must be ticked:

BONUS C: Confidence

None of the C’s above matter if you are not confident with your purchase. At Friendly Diamonds, we hope to ensure that you are happy and satisfied with the diamond you selected. And to help with this C, we are happy to provide you with all the guidance and information you require!

Fancy Colored Diamonds

Fancy-colored diamonds are a rare category of diamonds celebrated for their vibrant hues. Traditionally, diamonds are graded on the GIA D-Z color scale, but fancy-colored diamonds are not evaluated within this range. Unlike the D-Z scale that measures the absence of color, the fancy color scale measures the presence of color. They are, instead, graded on a different scale that focuses more on the diamond’s hue, tone, and saturation.

Hue: Defined as the color of the diamond- for example, is the diamond pink? Is it yellow?

Tone: Refers to the lightness or darkness of the color- is it a light blue? Is it a dark yellow?

Saturation: Refers to the intensity of the color- is it a vivid yellow?

Diamonds come in a variety of colors, each having its own unique beauty. While some may prefer a colorless diamond, others may opt for a fancy colored diamond. The most popular diamond colors include yellow, pink, blue, green, and brown.

Fancy Yellow Diamonds

Fancy yellow diamonds are the most popular diamond color. Majority of fancy colored diamonds are yellow. This hue comes from nitrogen in the diamond’s lattice structure.

Fancy Pink Diamonds

Fancy pink diamonds are among the rarest diamond colors available. Unlike with yellow diamonds, experts are yet unsure about what creates a pink hue in diamonds; they believe that it may be due to an atomic-level lattice defect.

Fancy Blue Diamonds

Fancy blue diamonds get their hue from the element boron (B). It is one of the rarest diamond hues available, making it incredibly sought after and appreciated.

Fancy Green

Fancy green diamonds are rare and distinctive due to their unique color. The green color in diamonds results from the presence of certain elements and radiation exposure, which affects the diamond's crystal structure.

Fancy Brown

Fancy brown diamonds are among the most common fancy colored diamonds. They are also referred to as ‘champagne’ or ‘cognac’ diamonds, and nitrogen (N) is responsible for a diamond’s brown hue.

Diamond Shapes

Diamonds are cut into various shapes, each having its own distinct style and brilliance. Generally, these fancy shapes fall into one of two categories: brilliant cuts and step cuts. Each category has a range of shapes with distinct characteristics and visual effects. Let’s dive deeper into both categories and how they differ from one another.

Brilliant Cut

Brilliant cut diamonds are incredibly popular in jewelry since they are precisely designed to maximize the diamond’s ability to reflect light, resulting in phenomenal brilliance and fire. In the early 20th century, Marcel Tolkowsky calculated the ideal proportions for a round diamond’s optimum brilliance. Since then, the brilliant cut has become the standard for diamond cutting.

Of all the various shapes found within brilliant cut diamonds, round diamonds are the most popular. Every shape offers its own set of qualities that make it unique and desirable. The table below explains how the faceting of each shape affects its perceived size, surface area, and brilliance:

Step Cut Diamonds

Step cut diamonds are popular for their classy and sophisticated appearance; they are characterized by their large, flat facets that create prominent looks and highlight a diamond’s clarity and color. Popular during the Art Deco era, step cut diamonds have become increasingly in-demand for classy, timeless engagement rings and jewelry.

We have made this table to help you better understand the characteristics of a step cut diamond and how its shape impacts the appearance and brilliance.

Diamond Grading Certificates

Diamonds are certified by institutions and laboratories that grade diamonds based on the 4Cs- cut, color, clarity, carat. There are many leading institutions for diamond grading; getting a diamond certified is a crucial step to ensure that you are confident with your purchase.

The Importance of Diamond Grading Institutes

These grading institutes play an important role in providing reliable and consistent grading standards. Their certifications help ensure trust and transparency between buyers and sellers, making diamond transactions more secure and reliable.

• GIA Report Number: This is the unique number given to a particular diamond. If this number was entered into the ‘GIA report check, the details surrounding this diamond would be available for you to see.

• Grading Results: This is where you will find the 4 Cs- cut, color, clarity, carat. However, GIA only grades the cut of round diamonds, and no fancy-shapes as they believe that the cut of fancy shaped diamonds is subjective and every individual will have a different opinion of what is appealing and not. This is why this certification only has 3 results: carat, color, clarity.

• Inscription: The diamond’s inscription number will always be the same as its Report Number. This is to ensure any buyer that the diamond they have purchased is matching with its certification. It is incredibly important to always verify that the certificate and diamond have the same number before purchasing.

Diamond Care

Diamonds are renowned for their beauty and durability, but in order to maintain their sparkle and value, proper diamond and jewelry care is essential. Here are a few ways in which you can maintain your diamond jewelry.

Regular Cleaning

Diamonds can attract dust, dirt and oils (even from our body). All of this can dull a diamond’s brilliance. Here is how you can clean your diamond and diamond jewelry regularly to maintain its luster.

• At home: Soak your diamond/jewelry in a mixture of luke-warm water and mild dish soap. After allowing it to soak for 20-30 minutes, carefully remove the diamond/jewelry and use a soft-bristled toothbrush to remove any remaining dirt. The soap will allow you to rid the diamond of any excess oils or dirt and the brush will remove dirt.

• Professionally: While at home cleaning is beneficial, it may be advisable to get your jewelry cleaned professionally sometimes. This is to ensure that it is being cleaned as well as it can be.

Safe Storage

While cleaning your jewelry will rid it of a lot of residue, storing your jewelry securely will prevent it from developing scratches, chips and damage.

• Keep your diamonds separate while storing them at home. This prevents scratching. Furthermore, when traveling, ensure to carry your jewelry in travel pouches with compartments to ensure that they do not touch and scratch each other.

Avoid Harsh Chemicals

This is specifically for jewelry- as harsh chemicals such as chlorine can damage the metal setting around your jewelry. Remove your diamond jewelry while completing household chores using cleaning products containing chlorine and other harsh chemicals.

Be Mindful

Yes, diamonds are incredibly durable. However, certain activities can put your diamond jewelry at risk of unnecessary wear and tear.

• Remove your jewelry prior to taking part in any physical activities (such as swimming, gardening, heavy lifting, or any sports).

• Be mindful of applying lotions, perfumes, oils before wearing your jewelry as these products can leave residues.

Regular Appraisals

Regularly giving your jewelry for appraisal is incredibly important to make sure that the value of your pieces are up-to-date.

• Normal wear-and-tear of your jewelry can impact its value and resale amount. Furthermore, market value for diamonds and metals is constantly being revised, so it is essential to make sure that your jewelry is valued according to the latest prices.

By following these care tips, you can ensure that your jewelry shines and sparkles like it did when you first bought it. For more information on how to care for your jewelry, do not hesitate to contact our customer support team.

Lab Diamonds

Lab grown diamonds are diamonds grown in laboratories under controlled environments and conditions. Lab grown diamonds possess identical chemical, physical, and optical properties as that of a natural diamond.

This table helps better understand the difference between a lab grown diamond and a natural diamond.

How are lab grown diamonds formed?

Lab grown diamonds are formed in controlled environments and conditions in a laboratory. They are created in one of two ways: High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT), or Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD). Both processes ensure that it is near impossible to identify the difference between lab grown diamonds and natural diamonds unless you’re an expert gemologist or have a diamond tester machine.

Eventually, when the diamond reaches the manufacturer’s desired size, the pressure and temperature inside the machine is gradually reduced and the diamond is carefully removed.

Lab vs Simulants

Lab-grown diamonds are different to simulant diamonds. While both can be used in jewelry, lab-grown diamonds are the preferred choice for an optimum sparkle and unmatched beauty.

What are Diamond Simulants?

A diamond simulant is a material that is designed by humans to look like a diamond. However, it does not possess the same chemical, physical or optical properties as a lab-grown diamond. Oftentimes, simulants are used as a more affordable alternative to diamonds in jewelry, even though they do not offer the same sparkle or luster.

To better understand the difference between lab-grown diamonds and simulants, here are their key characteristics: